Most buyers don't ask enough questions before sending a deposit. The questions below are the difference between buying a healthy puppy from a breeder you can trust for the next decade and buying a problem you'll be paying for at 2 AM in three years.
A serious breeder will welcome these questions. A breeder who gets defensive is telling you something - listen.
How to use this list. Don't fire all 25 at once. Start with 5–10 in the first email. If the answers are thorough, ask more. If the breeder rushes past them, walks them back, or gets defensive, that's your answer.
1. How long have you been breeding Olde English Bulldogges specifically?
Look for breeders with multiple litters under their belt, ideally 5+ years in the breed. New breeders aren't disqualifying but should be working with a mentor and willing to say so.
2. How many litters do you produce per year?
Anything over 4–5 litters a year from one breeder is a red flag - that's commercial scale, and almost nobody can socialize that many puppies properly.
3. Are both parents OBBA-registered? May I see their registration numbers?
Verify the numbers on bulldoggeregistry.com directly. Don't trust a screenshot of papers.
4. Can I see the parents and their pedigrees?
Sire visit isn't always possible (often a different kennel), but the dam should be on-premises. Pedigrees should be readily available - at least 3 generations.
5. Have the parents had their hips evaluated? OFA or PennHIP results?
OBBA does not require this. A breeder who has done it voluntarily is signaling commitment. If they haven't, ask why and listen to the answer.
6. What's the COI on this litter?
If they don't know what COI is, that tells you something. If they do, low single-digits to mid-teens is reasonable; over 20% should have a justification.
7. Has there been any history of cherry eye, allergies, hip dysplasia, or seizures in the line?
An honest breeder will tell you what they've seen. A breeder who says 'never any problems' is either lying or hasn't been breeding long enough.
8. What's the lifespan of the grandparents? Cause of death?
Lifespan is heritable. Grandparents that died at 6 are a warning. Grandparents that lived to 13 are a good sign.
9. What does your written sales contract include?
There should be one. Health guarantee duration, return clause, spay/neuter terms, breeding rights, registration. Read it before you put down a deposit.
10. What's your return policy if I can't keep the dog?
Reputable breeders take their dogs back at any point in life, no questions asked. If they won't, you're not the right buyer or they're not the right breeder.
11. How are the puppies socialized between weeks 3 and 8?
Puppies need exposure to different people, surfaces, sounds, and gentle handling during this window. A breeder who can describe their socialization protocol is doing it. A breeder who says 'they're around the house' is winging it.
12. Have the puppies been vet-checked? Vaccinated? Dewormed? Microchipped?
Standard at 8 weeks: first vaccination, two rounds of deworming, vet exam, microchip. Ask for a copy of the vet records before signing.
13. What food are the puppies on now, and what do you recommend going forward?
Sudden food changes upset puppies. A good breeder will send you home with a few days' food and a clear recommendation.
14. When can I take the puppy home?
8 weeks minimum, 10 weeks is better for many breeders. Anyone offering puppies at 6 weeks is doing it wrong.
15. Do you require spay/neuter? When?
Most pet sales are on spay/neuter contracts. Timing should be after 12 months for large breeds, ideally 18–24 months - earlier increases joint and cancer risk.
16. Will you be available after I take the puppy home?
The breeder should be a resource for the dog's lifetime. If they're not, you're on your own.
17. Have you bred this specific pair before?
If yes, ask how the previous litter turned out. If no, ask why they chose this pairing - they should have a clear reason.
18. What temperaments are common in this line?
Different lines have different temperaments - more drive, more couch, more reactive, more stable. The breeder should know their line.
19. What's the kennel's biggest weakness or trait you're trying to improve?
Every breeder has something they're working on. A breeder who can't name one isn't paying attention.
20. Can I have the contact info of past buyers?
References are normal. A breeder who refuses is signaling something.
21. Do you compete in shows or sport with your dogs?
Not required, but it's a sign the breeder is being evaluated by other people on the structure and temperament of the dogs they produce.
22. What registry papers come with the puppy?
OBBA permanent registration is the OBBA standard. Sometimes you'll get puppy papers and need to convert. Sometimes you'll get dual-registry papers (OBBA + UKC, OBBA + IOEBA). Know what you're getting.
23. What's the deposit amount, and is it refundable?
Standard: 25–50% deposit, non-refundable but applied to a future litter if the current one falls through. Get this in writing.
24. How will I receive the puppy - pickup or shipping?
Pickup is always better. Avoid air cargo for an OEB; ground transport with a pet-transport service is acceptable. The breeder should know reputable transporters.
25. What questions do you have for me?
A good breeder will interview you. They'll ask about your home, your other pets, your work schedule, your experience. A breeder who doesn't ask anything is just selling puppies.